Jenny Graham’s three-day gravel ride through Lochaber

Jenny Graham’s three-day ride through Lochaber blends adventure, challenge, and camaraderie. From rugged gravel trails and hike-a-bike detours to stunning Loch Shiel and the Glenfinnan Viaduct.

Yeah, I’m pretty sure this route goes. A bold claim, equal parts optimism and intrigue. When it comes to my route choices, 'goes' often means squinting at a map, imagining the space that hasn't yet been filled in. Stitching together forgotten tracks and unseen paths to undoubtedly uncovering a hidden gem. A romantic notion until you’re bog-trotting up a hillside, bikes on backs, cheering whenever a deer-trodden trail reappears, only for it to vanish moments later.

My pal Pen was new to gravel riding, and I worried our heather-hauling antics might put her off. But as we clambered through the hillside, chatting about the magnetic pull of the untrodden, I saw the same spark in her eyes. Topping out onto freshly laid logging tracks, feeling smug that despite the hour-long hike-a-bike, it sort of 'went'—if you squinted.

This spirit of exploration brought us west to Lochaber for three days of boujee gravel riding, anchored by a stay at ROAM WEST, just south of Fort William. It was the perfect late-October basecamp: rain hammering the windows, a roaring fire in the bar, and a drying room saving our sodden gear—proof we’d nailed the balance between wild adventure and just enough comfort. The first two days mixed meandering gravel trails with hike-a-bike detours around Ben Nevis and Ballachulish, but the third day was all about the ride: 100km of pure pedalling goodness.

We kicked off with a short CalMac ferry ride from Corran to the Ardnamurchan Peninsula, a crossing that drovers herding cattle centuries ago would’ve faced with far less ease. For us, it was five breezy minutes, with a challenge to ride until the last ferry home framing the day.

The first 20km sped by on a quiet main road to Strontian, where traces of an old parallel road hinted at past travellers. The real magic began with the climb to Polloch. Steep and steady, the 6km ascent delivered breathtaking views: shifting clouds dramatised glens, and the peak of Beinn Resipol towering through. Topping out at 350m, we plunged down the twisting road through woods draped in moss, bursting with the rich, layered hues of autumn. Glimpses of Loch Doilet glittering far below, until we rolled into Polloch, a charming hamlet of old forestry houses.

Then came the ride’s crown jewel: a traverse along Loch Shiel. The gravel trail wound endlessly, hugging the contours of the loch’s banks. Flanked by towering cliffs whose raw faces contrasted with the calm waters below. We paused to watch a golden eagle soaring above—less impressed by us than we were by it. We didn’t see another soul until we reached Glenfinnan, where the solitude gave way to tourist buzz. The car park was alive with visitors snapping photos of the famous Harry Potter bridge, the Glenfinnan Viaduct. Among the chaos, we found a reward for our efforts: free hot drinks for those arriving by bike or foot. Yes, please!

A brief stint on a busier road gave way to quieter lanes along the side of Loch Eil where a flock of gulls kept pace with us. We imagined it was Friday-night excitement for kebabs in Fort William.

The final stretch dazzled us with a pink sunset over Ben Nevis, a perfect backdrop to the last flat miles toward the ferry port. Just as fairy lights twinkled in the distance, we came across the Ardgour Ales pop-up bar and brewery. Friday night pizzas around a campfire with locals? Absolutely! We ate, sipped local beer, and soaked in the laughter and warmth before catching the last ferry home. The perfect ending to three days of west coast adventures.

Route GPX files:

• Ardgour loop
• Hike a Bike Ballachulish
• Ben Nevis loop