Doing the Dempster: Arctic Fat Biking

Experience the Dempster Highway, where every mile brings you closer to the heart of the Arctic.

Objective: cycle from the top to bottom of Canada, from the Arctic Ocean to the Pacific.

Stage 1: The Dempster Highway

Winter would not have been the same without a return to Canada's north. I fell in love with the Yukon Territory in 2009, it’s a love that has only grown with time.

It was the final year of the ice road at the top of the Dempster Highway. That meant it was also my last chance to ride my Sonder Vir Fortis on that fascinating road that picks its way from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk, sweeping northwards until the Arctic Ocean.

I do not think there is another place in the world where I have made so many friends so quickly. I experienced the highest level of hospitality, kindness and generosity towards me that I have felt anywhere (India being a notable equivalent). Had circumstances forced me to return to Inuvik for an extended period, I would not have been disappointed, but quite the contrary. I would similarly have enjoyed an extended stay in Tsiigehtchic, but everything was good to continue.