Peak District Climbing Guide Book

Where to Climb in the Peak District

By Alpkit

Find your favorite climbing spots in the Peak District, whether you're a hand jamming king or a beginner looking for an epic bouldering challenge.

Whether you're inching your way up a featureless gritstone arête, jamming your way up a perfect crack line, or crimping your way up a limestone quarry, the Peak District is a gift that keeps on giving when it comes to climbing.

Here's a list of some great areas along with our favourite routes and problems.

Peak District Climbing Spots

  1. Stanage
  2. Horseshoe Quarry
  3. Froggatt
  4. Curbar
  5. Burbage South Valley
  6. Millstone Edge
Our map to climbing in the Peak District

Stanage Edge Gritstone: trad, bouldering

It's impossible to talk about Peak District climbing without mentioning Stanage. Up to 20 metres high, this gritstone edge stretches across the moors above Hathersage and yields over 2000 routes. You won't find any bolts there (you'll be exiled if you put any in), but you will find grooves, crack lines, roofs, towers, and slabs just begging to be climbed: it is the ultimate playground for trad climbers and boulderers of all abilities.

What to climb at Stanage Edge

There are so many incredible routes and problems that this isn't even the tip of the iceberg, but it's a good start point all the same!

Climbing Routes at Stanage Edge

  • Heaven Crack, Popular (VD)
  • Flying Buttress, Popular (HVD)
  • High Neb Buttress, High Neb (VS 4c)
  • Inaccessible Crack, High Neb (VS 4c)
  • Inverted V, Inverted V Area (VS 4b)
  • Tower Face, Plantation (HVS 5a)
  • The Right Unconquerable, Plantation (HVS 5a)
  • Flying Buttress Direct, Popular (E1 5b)
  • Where did my Tan go, High Neb (HVS 5a)
  • Quietus, High Neb (E2 5c)
  • Wuthering, Popular (E2 5b)
  • Black Hawk Bastion, Black Hawk Area (E3 5c)

Bouldering problems at Stanage Edge

  • Pebble Arête (f5+)
  • Crescent Arête (f5+)
  • The Lone Slab (f6A)
  • Bull Flakes (f6B)
  • Not to be taken away (f6C+)
  • Green Traverse (f7A)
  • Zippy's Traverse (f7B)
To be or not to be, Stanage (probably the Peak District's most iconic and most photographed boulder) | Photo credit: Hati Whiteley

Horseshoe Quarry Limestone: sport

Although not the first-choice venue for a lot of climbers, Horseshoe Quarry boasts some excellent routes with some undeniably enjoyable and interesting sequences. Quick-drying and sheltered, the elements seem to arrive to the Horseshoe way after everywhere else, making it ideal for year-round cragging. Most of our favourite climbs are in the 6s and 7s and are sparingly bolted, but, with a short walk-in and some sustained, pumpy routes up to 20 metres high, Horseshoe Quarry is ideal for late summer evenings when you want to get stuff done before the sun goes down.

What to climb at Horseshoe Quarry

  • Megalithic Man (F6b+)
  • Litany Against Fear (F6b+)
  • Private Prosecution (F6c)
  • Rain Dance (F6c+)
  • Demolition Man (F7a)
  • Wave of Mutilation (F7a)
Peak District Bouldering This guide features over 3,300 boulder problems on over 70 crags, both major and minor. Catering for boulderers of all abilities.
Boulder Britain This select UK bouldering guidebook travels from top to tail of the country covering popular and obscure bouldering locations. 3,200 problems of all grades.

Froggatt Gritstone: trad/bouldering

When we think of Froggatt, most of us are reminded of padding oh so delicately up delightfully precarious slabs, our gear seeming miles below us. And not without good reason: Froggatt ishome to some of the Peak's finest slabs. Don’t worry if you left your pluck at home - the combination of quarried and natural gritstone gives a huge variety of climbs up at Froggatt. Remarkable routes across the grades, coupled with clean, quick-drying, and high quality rock, make this crag well-worth visiting.

Recommended Routes on Froggatt Edge

  • Trapeze (VD)
  • Sunset Slab (VS 4b)
  • Tody's Wall (HVS 5a)
  • Valkyrie (HVS 5a)
  • Chequers Buttress (HVS 5a)
  • Three Pebble Slab (E1 5a)
  • Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
  • Four Pebble Slab (E3 5c)
  • Downhill Racer (E4 6a)

Recommended Bouldering at Froggatt Edge

  • Joe's Slab, Downhill racer (f5+)
  • The Northerner, Pinnacle Boulders (f5+)
  • Groovy, Pinnacle Boulders (f5+)
  • Joe's Arête, Downhill Racer (f6B)
  • The Teddy Bear's Picnic, Pinnacle Boulders (f6B)
  • Joe's Slab Traverse, Downhill Racer (f7A)
  • Dreamboat, Sunset Boulders (f7A)
Four pebble slab, Froggatt | Photo credit: Hati Whiteley

Curbar Edge Gritstone: trad/bouldering

If Froggatt is known for precarious slabs, Curbar is known for being downright strenuous and a lot of the climbs are quite high in the grade. That said, there are some mid-to-lower grade routes that are well worth the trip, as well as some classic bouldering (including the roadside Trackside).

Routes on Curbar Edge

  • Pillar Slab (VD)
  • P.M.C. (HS 4a)
  • The Peapod (HVS 5b)
  • Avalanche Wall (HVS 5a)
  • L'Horla (E1 5b)
  • Elder Crack (E2 5b)
  • Right Eliminate (E3 5c)
  • Moon walk (E4 6a)

Bouldering at Curbar Edge

  • Crescent Slab Arête,Crescent Slab(f4+)
  • Three Pocket Wall,Trackside(f5+)
  • Side Slot Wall,Trackside(f6A+)
  • Strawberries,Trackside(f6B)
  • Art of Japan, Big Rocker Buttress (f6C)
  • Gorilla Warfare,Gorilla Warfare(f7A)
  • Trackside,Trackside(f7A)
Ron Greenwood climbing Hannibal (7C) - Photo credit: UKC
Rob Greenwood climbing Hannibal (7C) - Photo credit: UKC

Burbage South Valley Gritstone: bouldering

Expect slopers, slabs, and rounded arêtes. A combination of flat, soft landings and not-too-high boulders are great for new recruits to outdoor climbing, and some higher-grade test-pieces mean that there's something to go at for everyone. There are also plenty of spots to hunker down for a picnic and belter views across the Peak District, making this an ideal venue for a day out at the crag with mixed ability and family groups. Take a jacketas thecold wind through the valley is sometimes hard to escape!

What to climb at Burbage Edge

Up to 5s

  • Exposure (f4+)
  • Pock-man (f5)
  • Pock (f5+)
  • The Cobra (f5+)
  • Chieftain (f5+)

6s and 7s

  • Puck (f6A)
  • Panzer (f6B+)
  • Alaska Right Sit Start (f6B)
  • The Sheep (f7A)

Bouldering Mats for gritstone bouldering

A bouldering mat is an essential piece of climbing equipment. It helps protect your landings and keeps your shoes clean before you step onto the rock. Gritstone is an abrasive rock so you want your pad to be durable, easy to clean but also light enough to carry into the crag.

Phud 8cm Light and portable taco style bouldering pad, ideal for whipping round your local circuit
Mujo 11cm Hinge style full bouldering mat for regular rock wranglers
Origin 11cm Taco style main bouldering mat for a portable uninterupted landing zone.

Millstone Edge Gritstone: trad

Not far from our Hathersage store, this is certainly one of our favourite haunts. Sheer walls, belter crack lines and smooth corners are the characteristics of this crag, as well as a venerable climbing history. The finishes are a little eroded in places, so it's always worth making sure you've got some bombproof gear in before you make the top out.

What to climb on Millstone Edge

Grades VD - E1

  • The Mall (VS 4c)
  • Bond Street (HVS 5a)
  • Great Portland Street (HVS 5b)
  • Great North Road (HVS 5a)

Grades E1 - E4

  • Embankment 3 (E1 5b)
  • Regent Street (E2 5c)
  • Erb (E2 5c)
  • Time for Tea (E3 5c)

Our Hathersage store is ideally placed to explore the wealth of Peak District climbing on its doorstep, so if you happen to find yourself climbing in the area then pop in to say hi! The Alpkit Hathersage team will be more than happy to give you some local pointers, you can also hire out a bouldering mat to help make the most of your time in the Peak District.

Further Reading

Bouldering Mats

  • Made In Britain

alpkit thud bouldering mat taco style boulder pad in tequila sunrise alpkit thud bouldering mat taco style boulder pad in blue lagoon

Phud

Taco bouldering mat for your local circuit, 100 x 100 x 8cm
€179,99
  • Made In Britain

Alpkit Origin taco bouldering mat in Sun orange alpkit origin bouldering mat boulder pad in merlot - closed

Origin

Large taco bouldering pad for frequent boulderers, 134 x 100 x 11cm
€269,99
  • Made In Britain

Alpkit Mujo hinge style bouldering mat in ocean green Alpkit Mujo hinged bouldering mat boulder pad in blue lagoon - closed

Mujo

Hinge style pad ideal for frequent boulderers, 100 x 132 x 11cm
€329,99
  • Made In Britain

alpkit wafer sit start bouldering mat boulder pad in blue lagoon alpkit wafer sit start bouldering mat boulder pad - action

Waffa

Small bouldering pad for sit starts and up-close impacts, 80 x 50 x 6cm
€64,99
  • Made In Britain

alpkit boulder bucket chalk bag in pina colada alpkit boulder bucket chalk bag in merlot location

Boulder Bucket

Self-standing bucket with roll top, large pocket and webbing loops
€49,99
  • Made In Britain

alpkit climbing chalk bag in blue lagoon alpkit climbing chalk bag belt location

Chalk Bag

Cordura® chalk bag with waist strap for sport, trad or bouldering
€34,99

ProBalm Fodder

Moisturising skin creme to keep active skin hydrated
€12,49

ProBalm Lips

Minty lip balm containing all natural ingredients
€4,99

ProBalm Puck

A 100% natural balm for repairing tired and damaged skin
€9,99

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