Bikepacking the Tour Aotearoa - North Island

Connor and Al embark on a bikepacking adventure across New Zealand’s North Island. Following the Tour Aotearoa route, they navigated diverse landscapes, encountered challenging climbs, and experienced the kindness of strangers.

About 2 years ago, a simple Whatsapp message to Al sparked the biggest adventure we could dream of doing - the message read ‘what do you think about bikepacking across New Zealand?’.

We first visited New Zealand in 2019, as a month-long road trip in a rented camper van. Left in awe by the beauty and diversity of the country, we’ve since longed to return. We were originally planning another road trip by van or car, but as we were both cycling more and more, and following some amazing bikepackers on social media, I suggested bikepacking across the country. With neither of us having bikepacked at all, or even camped outside of a festival, this felt like a far fetched dream. We stumbled upon the Tour Aotearoa route, and decided to follow this from Auckland to Queenstown, which made the most sense logistically.

Fast forward to 2025, after months of planning and trying to acquire bikepacking gear on a budget, we’re sat on a plane to New Zealand, with our bikes and gear below us in a cardboard box. Landing in Auckland, we assembled our bikes at the airport and cycled into the city to spend our first night in an Airbnb. An early night, a coffee and a last minute supply run in the morning had us ready to set off. Cycling out of Auckland towards the Hunua Range Regional Park, we were brimming with nerves and excitement for the trip ahead of us. Navigating through Auckland traffic only added to these nerves, but before long we were off the busy roads, taking quieter roads before joining a logging track which forms part of the Hunua Traverse.

This long and steep climb on fully loaded bikes had us questioning our life choices, but these doubts soon left us when we were enjoying the views from our various break points on the ascent. The night was drawing in as we progressed towards the camp site through undulating forest roads deep within stunning native woodland surrounded by Kauri trees. Finally reaching camp after a final dodgy descent in the dark, we had to figure out how to set up the tent and sleep system that had only been used 6 months prior in a shakeout overnighter to our parents' garden.

Exhausted and feeling in over our heads, we slept through the warm night - waking to finally see our campsite in daylight, and we weren’t disappointed. We had our porridge, took ages to pack up then started day 2 of riding. The day began with a very steep climb to the highest point in the region of Auckland - being overtaken by trail runners up this hill was very humbling. We carried along the route, but with the heat and infamous afternoon headwind - we found ourselves flagging in the afternoon. With limited camping options and feeling exhausted, we began to pitch up in a questionable campervan ‘freedom camping area’ , where we weren’t sure tents were allowed. Luckily, the loveliest couple Jill & Ron approached us to advise us not to camp there, and offered us a bed in their house.

Jill and Ron were angels of humans. Feeding us with homemade sorbet, cakes & cups of tea - we chatted late into the evening accompanied by their two beautiful dogs Summer & Pippa. Waking up after the best nights sleep,we were given breakfast alongside thoughtful supplies that lasted us weeks into the trip. We have stayed in contact with Jill & Ron and cannot thank them enough for their hospitality. Arriving in Paeroa, we were greeted with more warmth in the form of a free bike repair, and free cookies from a cafe.

The kindness from these strangers kept morale high for the weeks to come. We made our way south, camping with a large group of riders partaking in the official Tour Aotearoa Brevet, trading stories and laughs, learning about each other over our camp dinners. Little did we know, some of these riders we would cross at different camp spots for the remainder of the North Island, despite variations in routes and the amount of distance we were covering per day.

After another day following meandering river trails, crossing swing bridges and climbing singletrack and fireroads - we arrived at the start of the Timber Trail. This is an 88km (?) trail with roughly 1400m elevation. With lengthy climbs, switchbacking our way up to the highest point of the trail, we were mesmerised by the quality of the trail, the dense forestry around us and the beautiful views which covered the middle of the north island. Reaching the DOC campsite roughly half way, where we initially planned to end our day - a school camp using the campsite for an expedition made us decide to get our heads down and complete the rest of the trail.

One more notable climb, and we were met with roughly 30km of fast descent, which was welcome after the slow climb of the morning. The trail distance markers were appearing with less and less time between each one and providing a sweet countdown towards the free campsite that we would call home for the night. We met a British couple at this campsite who kindly offered us a cup of tea and homemade flapjack while we were pitching up - kindness from strangers was a recurring theme on this trip, we must have really looked like we needed some help!

The next morning gave us our first rain of the trip, we headed into Tamaranui where we found a cafe to dry out and charge our electronics. Talking to the owner of the cafe, we bought a couple of coffees and the biggest portion of broccoli and peanut salad for lunch. Being vegan isn’t always easy in NZ, but he went out of his way to make sure we were well fueled and let us fill our bags with fruit for the road.

After a mixture of smooth, rolling country roads and bone-rattling washboard gravel, we reached the beginning of the notorious Mangaparua Track. This was a rough 40km track with a steep climb that led to panoramic views that really made you feel like the only people for miles. Loose and tough descents, broken up by a series of swing bridges which required dismounting the bike to carry it across - no easy feat on with loaded bikes. Not quite defeated, we enjoyed the last descent from the Bridge to Nowhere to the jet boat landing, where we boarded a jet boat for a 30km stretch down the Whanganui river, which had us holding on tight and grinning from ear to ear.

After another night camping, we set off towards Whanganui, hugging the river the whole way there. Grateful for a bit of tarmac after a tough few days, we underestimated some of the climbs on this route - especially the deceivingly named Gentle Annie. Reaching Whanganui, we had booked 2 nights in an Airbnb while some bike repairs were carried out due to a failed freehub body a couple of days prior. This time allowed us to rest, drink some delicious flat whites & eat to our hearts content.

Bikes running smoothly, we continued south. With fresh legs and a little more used to long days in the saddle, the next few days we were covering some bigger distances. Although the days were hot at this point - the nights were cooling down, we were surprised to be met with frost a couple of mornings.

Cycling past vast farmland filled with cattle & sheep, we were enjoying the variety in scenery the North Island provides. Green, rolling hills meet open planes and dusty gravel. Heading through Palmerston North, we began the notorious Pahiauta Track. This gruelling climb took us up 300m of busy road, on full alert of all the cars passing us. Reaching the top, we began a smooth & steep descent just as the heavens opened. Turning off to a gravel road that took us to Pahiuata, the rain got heavier and heavier. The crack of thunder and dramatic flashes of lightning had us eager to finish for the day. With poor visibility & being soaked through, we got our heads down and carried on riding towards the campsite. Dripping wet, we saw some familiar faces from earlier on in the trip who were taking shelter in the communal area. Now showered and dry - we had dinner with these old friends and shared some Whittakers (the best chocolate!).

With sodden clothes & bike bags that we were hoping would dry out while on the road, we had a morning of sealed roads towards Eketahuna. We stopped in a cafe here at the perfect time just as rain really came down again. With a break in the rain, we set off once again. Enjoying the hard packed gravel, short climbs and flowing descents, we found ourselves climbing back into Eketahuna. Confused, we traced our steps back on the Garmin and found we missed a turning - our first & only navigation mishap of the trip. Low on morale, having added 25km on to an already long day, we rode in silence. Stopping then to assess our sleeping options for the night, we decided on a motel to allow us and our clothes a chance to dry out.

A new day, now over the perils of the previous days navigation, we enjoyed a flat and easy 50km to Martinborough - the heart of the North Islands wine region. The best flat white of the trip so far, from In The Neighbourhood Coffee had us in high spirits to carry on the day. With a beautiful, open lake to our left and a mountain to the right - we followed quiet roads & cycle paths to the beginning of the Remutake Rail Trail. This is a repurposed rail trail which cuts through the mountains. Once again, we had a great sense of the remoteness - despite villages being a matter of kilometers either side of us. Reaching the Remutake Summit, we had some garlic crackers that had become a staple of our diet on this ride. Descending from the summit, we stopped for an icecream while we decided on campsite options for the night. Finally deciding on a night camping in Upper Hut - the end of the North Island was in sight.

Cycling towards Wellington through smooth cycle paths in beautiful parks, we caught our first glimpse of the sea since Whanganui. Looking forward to the great food and drink options Wellington was sure to provide, we battled through the strong headwinds along the state highway that took us straight into the city. First stop - Coffee. Then after finding some lunch, and stopping by a bike shop for an overdue service, we climbed up Mount Victoria to our poorly chosen Airbnb location for the night. A rest day in Wellington, then a late night ferry crossing to the South Island - where we begin the second leg of our adventure.

Part 2 - South Island.